Thursday, January 5, 2012

RG2011... Travel Notes. Madagascar, day 7

 



Unfortunately, the last post and did not receive comments in 1000, so no boobs no longer!

Today, the seventh day of our expedition to the distant islands. Let's start with the important news. When I wrote a few days ago that the cruiser Aurora went to Madagascar, I do not believe it. I rechecked the data and confirmed the story, In 1904 the Russian fleet under Admiral Rozhdestvensky anchored off the coast of Madagascar. Sailors became fast friends with the natives: they were taught the Russian language, accept gifts in the form of fruit and spend money in local shops - they say that in the surrounding villages still have the gold and gold coins pyatirublevki. By the way, still on the island you can find Russian names. And most important! In memory of Madagascar sailors from the cruiser took with them as a live alligator! Here! The crocodile came to Russia at Aurora from Madagascar! And you would not believe.

So back to the seventh day. I recovered. It turned out I just poisoned by something in the New Year's Eve. Today our expedition visited the den evil sorceress and savage tribe, which has never seen a white man.



01. Witch asked her to buy cigarettes, a bottle of rum and lemonade. Rum and cigarettes she used for their intended purpose and lemonade used as a magic potion for their rituals. Despite the fact that almost all Madagascans Christians, they are more awe and respect for the pagan cults. Witch keeps his simple trick to hook the whole village.


02. To get to her office was very difficult. For three days the locals under any pretexts refused to hand over the location of its lair, but eventually one of them broke and we have appointed rendezvous witch. Witch has warned that it is usually a woman, but it's worth it to drink rum, as it immediately infuses the spirit of the witch. Literally after the first cup she quickly changed into a red dress, let down her hair and began to pour himself and spit infusion of marsh leaves with honey.


03. Assistant rubbed dry clay.


04. Total during the ritual of transformation was three, during each witch changed clothes. And now attention! I learned how to quit smoking. Need to rinse your mouth with tincture of marsh leaves and honey, then pour yourself a head. Next, you need to drink liquor on Friday of the leaves. And most importantly, 3 months, you can not eat shrimp at the full moon. As says the witch, you smoke then do not want to.


05. This osche a ritual. First, couples honey poured on his head, and then from bowls with a silver coin sing some liquid. They say, eliminates spoilage.


06. In general, the local trust in this whole circus and panicky fear of sorcerers and shamans. And this witch's kitchen:


07. Outskirts of the seaside city.


08. Beach - an ideal place for a landfill.


09. After the session, the magic of our expedition descended here on such a boat (well, almost such) and went to a distant village. You can get there only by river. By the way, these boats local fishermen make one piece of wood. Each fisherman has his own tree, which goes on through the generations from father to son. When the tree grows, it is made the boat. So, 100 years ago, the great-great-grandfather noticed a native tree in the forest proper, and now his cousin amassed himself a brand new boat.


10. That and the village itself.


11. Main street.


12. There are no roads here are not all products are delivered by boat. For example, a boat arrived with a beer.


13. All of the houses, they are about a hundred, like this.


14. Some very small. Build everything from palm trees, bamboo and everything that catches in the sea.


15. The main building in the village - a school. This is the only stone building in the village. Apparently it was built 20 years ago by the Europeans gathered at Christmas money gullible taxpayers in the regular program of assistance to the natives. Now all classes of desks piled in a corner, and the premises used for gaming children. Perhaps this is due to the holidays.


16. The biggest problem in the countryside - it's people. A few minutes dozens of natives surrounded the members of the expedition, and started with the curiosity to look at. Soon, dozens turned to hundreds.


17. The only possibility to escape was to go to someone's house. There the crowd go shy.


18. But all have been waiting in the street. I felt like a real medieval discoverer! So much attention, and astonished eyes, I still have not seen in any other country in the world.


19. Then the children grew bolder, and demanded their photograph.


20. Flocks of children were not allowed to go for a second, so that normally shoot never happened.


21. But the kids are attacking a member of the expedition (red cap in the center).


22. Now let us compare the wild life of the natives with the life of urban residents. Here is the house in the city.


23. This hut is native. As you can see, the only difference - the lack of TV. Although why they television, when there is no electricity?


24. The entire village is engaged in fishing.


25. More children ...


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28.


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31.


32. And it's time to go home to our cozy hotel with a swimming pool, internet and lodging. Village came to see off the guests.


33. On the eve of the night rain fell, and in the morning in the vicinity of our hotel the flood.


34. Local residents are not confused. Someone went to wash clothes, and someone threw a network. Where yesterday grazed cows, now swimming shrimp.


35. Talking about ladybug. Milk on the island is almost there. What is a good cheese, sour cream, cottage cheese - are almost unknown. About meat, too, not everyone can hear. The average citizen of Madagascar to eat meat a few times a month.


36. The catch.


37. On the way back noticed a funeral procession. Did not take off so as not to confuse people. That's quite an interesting tradition. When an elderly person dies, everyone is happy and dancing, as if the young - are crying.


Other posts from Madagascar

Travel Notes. Madagascar, day 6
Travel Notes. Madagascar, day 5
Travel Notes. Madagascar, Day 4
Travel Notes. Madagascar, Day 3. Happy New Year!
Travel Notes. Madagascar, Day 2
Travel Notes. Special edition
Travel Notes. Madagascar Day 1
Moscow-Paris-Africa!

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